John Curtas takes a week off from his blog and returns full of piss, vinegar and cheese. Today he takes issue with Max Jacobson’s coverage of the cheeses at Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro, which the food critic for Vegas Seven compared to those at Joél Robuchon and Restaurant Guy Savoy. “SEVEN magazine’s food coverage is devoted to sucking up to advertisers. (ELV is still awaiting the first, even slightly negative sentence or phrase to appear in any review or article about a restaurant.) The puff piece on Morels’ cheese program was p.r. driven right into the magazine’s lap, and like streetwalker it is, the magazine lifted its skirt quickly and productively for all concerned.” [ELV]
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