Heidi Knapp Rinella at the Las Vegas Review-Journal compares newcomer German restaurant Cafe Berlin to the recently shuttered 40-year-old Cafe Heidelberg and says, “Cafe Berlin has lots of promise, though it is operating at about a four-decade deficit.” Yes, it's going to be that kind of review.
She says the sauerkraut was “a little on the mild side, which may be a nod to American tastes, and the mashed potatoes were the standard German style, pureed beyond any signs of life.”
If you can get through the review, HKR dedicates an entire paragraph to Wienerschnitzel.
“[It] is a cutlet cooked in the Vienna style, which is to say lightly breaded and sauteed in butter. The original was veal, but over the past few decades most restaurants in Germany and Austria switched to the more affordable and available pork, and Cafe Berlin clearly states on its menu that that's the case there as well. And it's the case with the other members of the restaurant's Schnitzel Corner, with the exception of the chicken Cordon Bleu. As you may have figured out by now, most of them basically are variations on a Wienerschnitzel theme.”
As you may have figured out by now, she gives the service and atmosphere a B and the food a B+ for an overall B+.
Max Jacobson at Vegas Seven visits the new Wine 5 Café, a fusion of Kenyan and American cuisines. “Kenya has a sizable Indian population, and that’s why dishes of Indian origin such as chapatti (an oily flatbread) and samosas (stuffed pastry triangles) are on the menu here.” The only thing lacking? No Tusker beer, a staple in Kenya. “We got a Kenyan restaurant before L.A. did, but they got the Tusker.” [VS]
Al Mancini at CityLife discovers the new 28 Go, an Asian fusion restaurant serving up unconventional dishes across from UNLV on Maryland Parkway. He sampled the ramen and the tapas. “The chefs at 28 Go understand Asian cuisine and show a mastery of technique. They’re also creative, and don’t seem to give a damn about pissing off purists.” [CL]
Jim Begley at Las Vegas Weekly checks out the new Bobby Q Grill inside Spectator’s Bar & Grill. “Tough to say if the Best Fried Pickles Ever ? really are, but they’re easily the best in town.” Other dishes he tried include the Southern Deviled Eggs made with “Comeback sauce, a remoulade variant native to the Deep South,” and the Big Easy Butter Burger with butter on the patty. [LVW]
Brock Radke at Las Vegas Weekly heads over to I-Naba, the soba noodle house in Chinatown. He says the small plates here are “one of the city’s best new bargains—slices of marinated tuna with yam and quail egg for $6; a whole plate of battera, smoky little wedges of pressed mackerel on sushi rice, for $7; and two beautiful slabs of braised pork belly for $6.” [LVW]
Cafe Berlin [Photo: April D./Yelp]