John Curtas Gives It To SkinnyFats with Both Barrels

John Curtas is back to writing reviews and unloads both barrels in his piece on SkinnyFats. As he describes it: "It is food perfectly geared to a generation that thinks it's smarter than it is. It is food that doesn't have a clue about quality. It is food that gives the clueless poseurs of the Millennial Generation the cuisine they deserve."

He calls the menu "overwrought to the nth degree, i.e., loaded with lots of ingredients and very little thought," and yet dishes taste of none of the ingredients listed. He did, however, like the chocolate chip cookie.

Curtas also compares the margherita pizzas at Novecento 900 Pizzeria and Settebello. Surprisingly, newcomer Novecento wins over Settebello. [Eating LV}

Brock Radke says Echo & Rig Butcher Shop & Steakhouse at Tivoli Village redefines the steakhouse. "Since they're butchering everything here, Echo & Rig offers several other steaks that you can't find all over, like the ribeye cap, herb-marinated hanger and lemon and garlic tri-tip," he says, along with shareable plates "highlighting fresh vegetables and heartier ingredients that could create an amazing meal by themselves." [LVW]

Al Mancini heads to Divine Café, the breakfast and lunch spot on Valley View Drive, to try the 5 napkin burger. He says the hearty pretzel bun tops the half-pound Angus beef burger along with cheese, peppers, onions, jalapeño bacon, green chilies, heirloom tomato, romaine, grain mustard and chipotle mayo. "Simply fitting the whole thing into your mouth can be a challenge. But it's well worth it." [CL]

Why, yes, Heidi Knapp Rinella DID give a flat out A to breakfast and lunch spot Rise & Shine that features servers wearing pajamas, a ribeye that was "reasonably tender and flavorful" and "wadded-up napkins used to level some tables." So expect the same level of food and service that you would find at Wing Lei, her last straight A grade. Really? [LVRJ]