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Food Critic Airs Grievances

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Fleur by Hubert Keller
Fleur by Hubert Keller
Photo: Mandalay Bay

In the spirit of sister site Eater NY's Shitshow Week, here is a complaint from a prominent food writer about a Vegas restaurant.

Mon dieu, Chef Hubert Keller! You may be a James Beard winner, former Food & Wine Best New Chef and a Top Chef Masters darling, but to a diner seeking their first lunchtime taste of the Keller magic at your Las Vegas "Fleur" outpost, in plain (Todd) English, it just feels like a cash grab, not worthy of your name, or the florid prose below:

"Thank you for choosing Fleur by Hubert Keller the Top Chef Master's latest fashionable epicurean experience. We look forward to providing you with intellegent [sic] cuisine married with an excitement in dining experience and when that level is achieved, a memory will be created that you will always remember! Please note that the restaurant does have a smart casual dress code." 

I had the immense pleasure of dining at Fleur de Lys, before the name and menu were pruned. It may have proved unsustainable for Vegas — subtle, elegant, epicurean and yard-long-daiquiri-free. It was one of the best meals I had that year, and I'm glad I got to experience it before you scaled down in tone and plate size. I heard such lovely things about your FrancoMexiChinaTalian take on tapas — not to mention the cheeky "shower" mac 'n' cheese for which you gained acclaim on Top Chef Masters — and couldn't wait to sample for myself.

Instead, I found low-relief ass art on the walls, dopey flatbreads, silly salads, a hot dog and a bevvy of burgers (for which I could have just gone to your "Burger Bar" several hundred feet away. Nary a tapa in sight.

Chef — why did you dumb it down so much at lunch? Are you possessed of the notion that people are physically unable to digest ceviche and octopus before the sun is over the yardarm? Why are you an entirely different restaurant during the daylight hours, yet still billing yourself as a tapas joint? I get serving a "simplified" menu at lunch — especially in a tourist destination like Vegas — but does it have to be stupid, too?

Stay tapas as advertised, or consider just butting out of the lunch biz altogether.
· The Airing of Grievances [~ENY~]
· All Coverage of Fleur [~ELV~]

Burger Bar

3930 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702 632 9394

Fleur by Hubert Keller

3950 South Las Vegas Boulevard, , NV 89119 (702) 632-9400 Visit Website

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