Has the Sterling Brunch gone downhill since it reopened at BLT Steak inside Bally's Las Vegas? Al Mancini seems to think so. "The powers-that-be at Caesars Entertainment didn't want to cross the $100 check line. At 90 bucks, this already seems pricey. But to truly deliver the quality I remember, they'd probably have to raise the bill another $20 or $30."
He says the lobster tails and cheese selections are smaller, the sushi "is no longer made to order. The chicken is dry. The signature tuna tartare, which you have to order from the kitchen, is unbelievably bland. And while I realize it makes me sound like a snob, serving caviar with metal spoons is not acceptable!"
But three reasons to go include unlimited Perrier-Jouët Champagne, American sturgeon caviar and "a create-your-own omelet station that included lobster, Boursin cheese and Cognac." [VS]
Seems every food critic in town descended on the for-now lunch-only Japanese Cuisine by Omae while it was ever-so-briefly open June 22-28. Mancini calls it "the new gourmand's power lunch." He says, "My three-course meal was more food than I could finish. And given the elegance of each dish, I could easily see any of them selling for $20 on its own on the Strip. As long as this deal continues, I expect it will be the most sought-after reservation in town." [VS]
Brock Radke says Giada De Laurentiis' menu at her restaurant at The Cromwell reflects tension, "the dueling desires to accommodate all while staying true to how she likes to cook and eat." You name it, he likes it. "It's off to a strong start and will likely improve, but a standard has already been set." [LVW]
· All Week in Reviews [~ELV~]