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Kerry Simon's new Carson Kitchen seems to be just what Downtown Las Vegas needed. Al Mancini says that Simon is again changing the dining dynamic of the city with his new restaurant.
Some of his favorite dishes include the veal meatballs with a sherry foie gras cream "worthy of any Michelin-starred restaurant," a spiced rabbit ragu served on spaghetti squash, gyro tacos and the beef Wellington that "just might give Gordon Ramsay's famed Wellington a run for its money." Fried chicken skins "may become the restaurant's signature dish," while warm bacon jam with melted brie cheese "presents itself gradually, hitting you first with its sugary sweetness."
Mancini did encounter some problem dishes. The devil's eggs were "watery." The black rice and oxtail risotto "was so incredibly bland nobody in my party would eat it." The Not Your Father's Twinkies "were a soggy mess." [VS]
Brock Radke heads to India Palace to sample some of the southern Indian dishes. "India Palace makes the tastiest version of chicken tikka masala I've experienced in Las Vegas," he says. [LVW]
HKR gives The Commissary at the Downtown Grand B+ grades across the board. She says it's "a fun, urban environment with creative offerings" but the "fish that was kinda fishy in spots." [LVRJ]
· All Week in Reviews [~ELV~]