Launching with a debut so low key that its Boulevard Mall landlord has yet to include the restaurant in its tenant directory, Primal Steakhouse arrived on the eastside serving thick cuts of meat surrounded by an interior filled with broadswords, animal pelts, and suits of armor.
Located on Maryland Parkway inside the long shuttered Italian restaurant Mamma Olivia, executive chef Angel Lopez promises a “Central American-inspired, fine-dining experience,” at a rare full-service destination for the mall.
Citing a local resume featuring time at Elio at Wynn Las Vegas, Gordon Ramsay Hell’s Kitchen at Caesars Palace, and Sadelle’s at the Bellagio, Lopez’s steakhouse menu is paired with cocktail selections that include a bourbon-based King’s Elixir, the Prosecco and wildflower honey Queen’s Nectar, and the Viking Punch served in an ox-horn drinking cup.
Glowing with amber lighting from chandeliers and wall sconces, the masculine environment has kept the prominent bar at the front entrance, still accessible from inside the Boulevard Mall.
On the menu, Iberico ham, bone marrow, seared scallops, and Guatemalan-style chorilonga sausage among the appetizers priced between $12 and $25. The main courses are headlined by the 32-ounce $125 tomahawk steak, intended to be shared by two customers.
Also available, Delmonico and smoked New York steaks, filet mignon, a rib-eye burger, lamb chops, and pork belly escabeche, plus branzino, skinned salmon, smoked halibut, and pan-roasted chicken dishes.
Primal Steakhouse, 3528 S. Maryland Parkway, 702-620-5103. Open daily from 5 to 11 p.m.